Unfortunately, as you may have found out first hand, sometimes the spray cans are not compatible with your mini type. This is a big deal, because many of us like to prime by rattle can. What your mini is comprised of tells you what its solvent stability is. This also gives variability to the quality of each piece, hence the popularity of HIPS. Resin are a bit more expensive than the other two not because the material is more expensive (plastic is dirt cheap), but because the molds wear out due to the process (spin or vacuum cast) and must be replaced. Also, very difficult to keep in shape, but can be re-bent using the hot water trick to some degree. One piece cast, but extreme flexibility allows some undercuts. PVC: (cheap), such as War of the Ring, Mice & Mystics, etc. Can be made on sprues by extrusion, which allows undercuts on multi-piece minis. Can be rigid or flexible, but doesn't hold thin parts as well. This in between style is becoming way more popular. HIPS (high impact polystyrene), from companies like CMON and FFG and their ilk (many kickstarter minis-fests).
Rigid and can form thin sheets and pieces. Resin (fairly expensive), mainly GW and the like. But they aren't magic, and if you have painted almost any boardgame mini (non-hobby quality), then you are quite familiar with this material. If you are a tabletop aficionado, then likely you do not have anything made of this material. Reaper makes big deal about how these minis are very different from anything out there, which is partly true. Why risk your minis when I did it for you?įirst, I should say that I really do like the Bones line. Despite the title, this is going to be another blog mostly focused on priming, although you can skip to the end and see how my attempts at priming Bones minis went. They generally have a big kickstarter every year, during which their minis are an insanely good deal. If you are not familiar with these, they are an inexpensive alternative to resin minis. I recently got into the Reaper Bones line of tabletop minis.
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